1 00:00:01,042 --> 00:00:05,755 -[car horn beeping] -[sirens wailing in distance] 2 00:00:19,644 --> 00:00:21,896 -Okay, so we'll try to take as much off. -[Anna Wintour] Yeah. 3 00:00:21,980 --> 00:00:24,024 -As quick as possible. -[Wintour] Yeah, that'd be great. 4 00:00:26,818 --> 00:00:27,944 Ooh. 5 00:00:28,028 --> 00:00:29,029 Sorry. 6 00:00:29,654 --> 00:00:30,780 [phone ringing] 7 00:00:31,489 --> 00:00:33,074 Hi, so it went well? 8 00:00:33,158 --> 00:00:34,325 Yes, it was good. 9 00:00:34,409 --> 00:00:35,535 -Yeah? -Yeah. 10 00:00:35,618 --> 00:00:37,037 It was romantic and cinematic. 11 00:00:37,120 --> 00:00:40,331 -[Wintour] You look great, right? -He cannot take a bad picture. 12 00:00:40,415 --> 00:00:42,000 -[Wintour] Good. Hiya. -Hello. 13 00:00:43,168 --> 00:00:48,089 Vogue has always been the defining magazine publication about fashion. 14 00:00:50,091 --> 00:00:51,301 [woman] Stop it. 15 00:00:51,384 --> 00:00:52,427 [Edward Enninful] Fresh! 16 00:00:52,510 --> 00:00:54,471 [woman] O-M-G. 17 00:00:54,554 --> 00:00:57,140 -Wow! -There's only one, look at that face. 18 00:00:57,223 --> 00:01:00,018 -Look at that body, look at it. -The body! 19 00:01:01,269 --> 00:01:03,021 -I mean... -[exclaims] 20 00:01:03,104 --> 00:01:05,148 [Enninful] There's no one like Naomi Campbell, 21 00:01:05,231 --> 00:01:06,274 there isn't. 22 00:01:06,357 --> 00:01:08,943 No wonder she gets away with murder. 23 00:01:09,027 --> 00:01:11,738 -Okay, that's not here yet? -No, it's there. 24 00:01:11,821 --> 00:01:15,200 [Wintour] So three in, three out and the cover. 25 00:01:15,283 --> 00:01:17,202 You never forget your Vogue covers. 26 00:01:19,204 --> 00:01:22,916 The dream ultimately was to be on the cover of Vogue. 27 00:01:24,125 --> 00:01:28,088 When Anna put me on the cover, it was like, "What?" 28 00:01:30,757 --> 00:01:33,134 Where's that blue one we were looking at the other day? 29 00:01:33,218 --> 00:01:34,928 [woman] I think we have that one. 30 00:01:35,011 --> 00:01:38,264 When you think of Anna Wintour, you think of just this like, 31 00:01:38,348 --> 00:01:41,309 chic, strong, boss woman. 32 00:01:41,392 --> 00:01:44,729 I mean, that seems to be more in the palette. 33 00:01:44,813 --> 00:01:46,815 She is this Warholian enigma, 34 00:01:46,898 --> 00:01:50,235 like a famous haircut, kind of like a living legend. 35 00:01:50,318 --> 00:01:51,986 [Tonne Goodman] There's no two ways about it. 36 00:01:52,070 --> 00:01:55,073 Vogue is Anna Wintour and Anna Wintour is Vogue. 37 00:01:55,657 --> 00:01:57,700 -[Wintour] So you want me to sit here? -Yes please, Anna. 38 00:01:57,784 --> 00:01:59,536 -Okay. -[woman] Anna, I'm sorry to ask you, 39 00:01:59,619 --> 00:02:02,038 would you mind awfully taking your sunglasses off? 40 00:02:02,122 --> 00:02:03,248 No, I'm gonna wear them. 41 00:02:07,460 --> 00:02:09,754 -[Naomi Campbell] Right, are we ready? -[man] Sound's rolling. 42 00:02:11,047 --> 00:02:13,967 [sighs] Wow, what does the '90s mean to me? 43 00:02:14,050 --> 00:02:17,595 God, the '90s just changed everything. 44 00:02:17,679 --> 00:02:20,056 Way too much fun, way too messy. 45 00:02:20,140 --> 00:02:22,976 But I'll let Kate tell you those stories. [laughs] 46 00:02:23,601 --> 00:02:25,603 Oh, no. [laughs] 47 00:02:27,230 --> 00:02:31,276 [Enninful] It was the decade that turned the fashion industry upside down. 48 00:02:31,359 --> 00:02:33,903 -It was a whirlwind. -If you made movies, 49 00:02:33,987 --> 00:02:35,655 you didn't hang out with the fashion people. 50 00:02:35,738 --> 00:02:38,992 If you did fashion, you didn't hang out with music people. 51 00:02:39,075 --> 00:02:42,912 [Amber Valletta] There was a huge change that kind of happened with fashion, 52 00:02:42,996 --> 00:02:44,747 film, music... 53 00:02:44,831 --> 00:02:48,084 all of these creative industries were starting to converge. 54 00:02:48,168 --> 00:02:52,213 It wasn't just about music, it became about the clothes too. 55 00:02:52,297 --> 00:02:54,799 It was a great time to be alive. 56 00:02:54,883 --> 00:02:57,719 [Enninful] It really felt like a revolution was underway. 57 00:02:57,802 --> 00:03:01,890 Every corner you would see this image, it was inescapable. 58 00:03:01,973 --> 00:03:05,935 You have to anticipate what they want before they know they want it. 59 00:03:06,644 --> 00:03:09,522 Oh. But we need to talk about the fact that I was the only Black person too. 60 00:03:09,606 --> 00:03:12,859 They weren't treating us the way they treat us now. Absolutely not. 61 00:03:12,942 --> 00:03:15,737 The public was fascinated by fashion. 62 00:03:15,820 --> 00:03:19,991 When I saw the Tom Ford Gucci, it was like, "Oh, my God." 63 00:03:20,074 --> 00:03:23,369 You're like, "Yeah, I wanna turn heads, why not?" 64 00:03:23,453 --> 00:03:24,454 [laughs] 65 00:03:24,537 --> 00:03:26,497 -Is everyone happy? -[Gwyneth Paltrow] Define happy. 66 00:03:27,373 --> 00:03:28,416 [laughs] 67 00:03:31,419 --> 00:03:32,795 [♪ electronic music playing] 68 00:03:33,421 --> 00:03:35,465 That decade changed everything. 69 00:03:35,548 --> 00:03:36,549 Okay. 70 00:03:36,633 --> 00:03:38,051 -Okay. -Okay. 71 00:03:38,134 --> 00:03:39,385 -All right. -So I'm looking at you? 72 00:03:39,469 --> 00:03:40,470 [man] Yes, please. 73 00:03:47,143 --> 00:03:49,562 [radio host] No place like New York today. What a day. 74 00:03:49,646 --> 00:03:51,981 Right now in Central Park, the present temperature 75 00:03:52,065 --> 00:03:55,568 is still pleasant, 49 degrees, humidity 44%, the wind's starting... 76 00:03:55,652 --> 00:03:58,571 Ever since Anna Wintour, the editor of British Vogue, 77 00:03:58,655 --> 00:04:01,574 was brought to New York by Condé Nast, there have been rumours 78 00:04:01,658 --> 00:04:04,786 that Miss Wintour would become the editor of American Vogue. 79 00:04:04,869 --> 00:04:07,872 Now the hot publishing story is that this probably will happen 80 00:04:07,956 --> 00:04:09,249 on September 1st. 81 00:04:11,501 --> 00:04:13,586 It was a big deal when Anna went to American Vogue. 82 00:04:13,670 --> 00:04:14,837 I remember it very well. 83 00:04:16,798 --> 00:04:19,175 [Jonathan Van Meter] There was a picture in some publication 84 00:04:19,259 --> 00:04:21,052 and then I, like, leaned in to look at her, 85 00:04:21,135 --> 00:04:23,554 and it was just like a whole new character in the universe 86 00:04:23,638 --> 00:04:26,683 was introduced at the moment. I was like instantly fascinated. 87 00:04:27,976 --> 00:04:29,894 I'm actually concerned about those bathing suits. 88 00:04:29,978 --> 00:04:31,896 I'm not sure we should be doing them anyway. 89 00:04:32,647 --> 00:04:35,066 I grew up in England back in the '60s. 90 00:04:37,026 --> 00:04:39,570 I was interested in the world of fashion 91 00:04:39,654 --> 00:04:42,407 because it was such an explosive time in London then. 92 00:04:43,616 --> 00:04:46,744 My dad was a London Fleet Street newspaper editor. 93 00:04:46,828 --> 00:04:50,456 He also had a reputation for being a little bit tough. 94 00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:56,212 I first started working in journalism when I was in my late teens. 95 00:04:56,296 --> 00:05:00,133 And like so many things in life, it just unfolded. 96 00:05:01,926 --> 00:05:04,053 [woman] These are the colours. What do you think? 97 00:05:04,137 --> 00:05:05,722 -[Wintour] Fabulous. -[man] It's great. 98 00:05:05,805 --> 00:05:07,140 It's gonna be a wonderful sitting. 99 00:05:08,141 --> 00:05:11,394 Condé Nast asked me to join Vogue as Editor-in-Chief 100 00:05:11,477 --> 00:05:14,063 because they felt it was time for change. 101 00:05:15,273 --> 00:05:19,652 Under the previous leadership, every cover of Vogue looked all the same, 102 00:05:19,736 --> 00:05:22,780 very close up, airbrushed, 103 00:05:22,864 --> 00:05:25,575 big hair, big makeup, big earrings. 104 00:05:26,367 --> 00:05:29,037 Everything was very ornate. 105 00:05:30,288 --> 00:05:34,000 [in French accent] Before Anna arrived, the magazine was extremely boring, 106 00:05:34,083 --> 00:05:38,504 boring, boring, beige, boring, boring. 107 00:05:39,255 --> 00:05:44,218 Sometimes you just need to tear everything up and start over. 108 00:05:45,553 --> 00:05:47,347 -[beep] -[people chattering indistinctly] 109 00:05:47,430 --> 00:05:52,477 [Wintour] I had no plan, but I knew I had to have really creative, 110 00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:54,395 brilliant people working with me. 111 00:05:55,688 --> 00:05:57,815 She's very demanding, she's very demanding. 112 00:05:57,899 --> 00:05:59,692 You have to give a lot of your time, 113 00:05:59,776 --> 00:06:02,070 but if she feels you have a talent for a thing, 114 00:06:02,153 --> 00:06:03,196 she totally supports it. 115 00:06:04,489 --> 00:06:06,240 [Wintour] Hamish, I actually interviewed, 116 00:06:06,324 --> 00:06:09,035 and I could see my assistant looking a bit pale. 117 00:06:10,078 --> 00:06:13,039 I'd been wearing my latest clobber 118 00:06:13,122 --> 00:06:17,794 and one of Anna's right-hand women looked at me aghast. 119 00:06:17,877 --> 00:06:21,089 He walked into my office and he and I were wearing the same jacket. 120 00:06:21,172 --> 00:06:22,924 [laughs] 121 00:06:23,007 --> 00:06:24,384 The same jacket. 122 00:06:25,176 --> 00:06:27,220 [Wintour] So I knew he was the person for me. 123 00:06:28,763 --> 00:06:30,681 But I think when you surround yourself with people 124 00:06:30,765 --> 00:06:33,226 that agree with you, it's a disaster. 125 00:06:33,309 --> 00:06:36,979 -Okay, I'd better see Jo. Thanks, Trudy. -[Trudy] Thanks, Grace. 126 00:06:37,063 --> 00:06:41,109 [Grace Coddington] I worked with her first at British Vogue in the mid-'80s, 127 00:06:41,192 --> 00:06:45,279 but I found it difficult, to be honest, and she knew it. 128 00:06:45,363 --> 00:06:48,908 Grace actually quit British Vogue because she didn't like what she called 129 00:06:48,991 --> 00:06:54,414 I was doing to Americanise British Vogue and she went to work for Calvin Klein. 130 00:06:54,497 --> 00:06:57,959 It was just a timing thing that I thought was perfect 131 00:06:58,042 --> 00:07:00,211 and she didn't, obviously, 132 00:07:00,294 --> 00:07:03,631 but we didn't lose contact. 133 00:07:03,714 --> 00:07:07,885 When I was given the editorship, the very first phone call I had, 134 00:07:07,969 --> 00:07:10,430 sitting at this desk, was from Grace. 135 00:07:10,513 --> 00:07:13,975 She said, "I'm starting on Monday, officially 136 00:07:14,058 --> 00:07:15,893 "and so why don't you start with me?" 137 00:07:15,977 --> 00:07:18,354 More, more, more. More, more. 138 00:07:18,438 --> 00:07:22,650 At this point in time, I really was on a different trajectory. 139 00:07:22,733 --> 00:07:26,988 First Calvin and then Harper's Bazaar, but Anna is very forthright. 140 00:07:27,071 --> 00:07:30,074 [Wintour] It took me a while to persuade her to join us, 141 00:07:30,158 --> 00:07:31,451 but I succeeded. 142 00:07:33,369 --> 00:07:37,123 I think we all need people that challenge the way you think, 143 00:07:37,206 --> 00:07:39,459 and that challenge the way you have done things 144 00:07:39,542 --> 00:07:43,463 and, you know why, for so many years I worked so well with Grace or Tonne 145 00:07:43,546 --> 00:07:45,465 or Carlyne, of course, Hamish, 146 00:07:45,548 --> 00:07:48,468 because they looked at the world through different eyes. 147 00:07:49,469 --> 00:07:51,554 [Carlynne Cerf De Dudzeele] It was a good team, I must say. 148 00:07:51,637 --> 00:07:54,015 You know, when you are looking at the row, it was like, 149 00:07:54,307 --> 00:07:57,059 "Oh là là. The Vogue team is arriving." 150 00:07:57,143 --> 00:08:00,188 I mean, it was fun! It was power! 151 00:08:04,901 --> 00:08:07,778 [pilot] I'd like to welcome you aboard this British Airways Concorde 152 00:08:07,862 --> 00:08:10,615 and I hope that we'll have a very special flight today. 153 00:08:10,698 --> 00:08:13,034 [engine whirring] 154 00:08:14,535 --> 00:08:19,916 I remember I was on a plane, coming back from London 155 00:08:19,999 --> 00:08:24,212 and a very conservative gentleman sat next to me and we started to talk. 156 00:08:25,379 --> 00:08:28,257 He asked me what I did, and I said I worked at Vogue, 157 00:08:29,342 --> 00:08:32,595 and he said, "I love Vogue, it makes me think of Audrey Hepburn. 158 00:08:33,387 --> 00:08:37,725 "Grace Kelly and I think about all these amazing icons." 159 00:08:37,808 --> 00:08:38,935 And then he said to me, 160 00:08:39,018 --> 00:08:41,229 "And of course Vogue could never be Madonna." 161 00:08:41,312 --> 00:08:44,273 And that was like a light bulb going off 162 00:08:44,357 --> 00:08:46,943 because I thought, "Well, of course, Vogue should be Madonna." 163 00:08:49,654 --> 00:08:52,114 [male reporter] Nudity, suggestions of bisexuality, 164 00:08:52,198 --> 00:08:55,159 sadomasochism, multiple partners. 165 00:08:55,243 --> 00:08:59,038 I like to provoke people, but I don't think about the danger of it, 166 00:08:59,121 --> 00:09:01,832 and if there is a dangerous element, that's exciting to me. 167 00:09:02,959 --> 00:09:06,629 Madonna was controversial, but she represented 168 00:09:06,712 --> 00:09:10,132 such a shift in who was creating fashion, 169 00:09:10,216 --> 00:09:13,135 who are young women, young men looking up to 170 00:09:13,219 --> 00:09:17,723 in terms of who their style icons were and with all respect 171 00:09:17,807 --> 00:09:21,185 to the very, very nice gentleman I sat next to on the plane, 172 00:09:21,269 --> 00:09:24,730 it wasn't Audrey Hepburn and it wasn't Grace Kelly. 173 00:09:24,814 --> 00:09:27,191 It was a different generation, it was a different time. 174 00:09:27,275 --> 00:09:29,193 [woman] Who do I wanna be? Madonna. 175 00:09:29,277 --> 00:09:31,737 She doesn't care what anyone thinks and she's just herself. 176 00:09:31,821 --> 00:09:35,199 Every girl in some way wanted to be Madonna. 177 00:09:36,325 --> 00:09:37,326 ♪ Strike a pose... ♪ 178 00:09:37,410 --> 00:09:38,744 It's Madonna. 179 00:09:38,828 --> 00:09:40,830 [woman] They're trying to find a different way to dress 180 00:09:40,913 --> 00:09:43,666 than how their parents want them to and everything else and that. 181 00:09:43,749 --> 00:09:45,209 It's a kind of rebellion. 182 00:09:45,293 --> 00:09:46,627 [♪ pop music playing, Madonna "Vogue"] 183 00:09:46,711 --> 00:09:48,337 ♪ Strike a pose... ♪ 184 00:09:48,421 --> 00:09:50,256 We all love Madonna, let's say it. 185 00:09:50,339 --> 00:09:51,966 -We love Madonna. -We love Madonna. 186 00:09:53,718 --> 00:09:55,553 ♪ Vogue, Vogue ♪ 187 00:10:00,766 --> 00:10:02,184 ♪ Look around ♪ 188 00:10:02,268 --> 00:10:04,604 ♪ Everywhere you turn is heartache ♪ 189 00:10:04,687 --> 00:10:07,189 ♪ It's everywhere that you go ♪ 190 00:10:07,273 --> 00:10:09,025 ♪ Look around ♪ 191 00:10:09,108 --> 00:10:12,570 ♪ You try everything you can to escape ♪ 192 00:10:12,653 --> 00:10:15,156 ♪ The pain of life that you know ♪ 193 00:10:15,239 --> 00:10:17,241 ♪ Life that you know... ♪ 194 00:10:17,325 --> 00:10:22,038 She was not afraid to express herself with her fashion, 195 00:10:22,121 --> 00:10:24,624 express herself through her sexuality. 196 00:10:24,707 --> 00:10:26,334 [announcer] Madonna! 197 00:10:26,417 --> 00:10:28,502 [woman whooping] 198 00:10:29,253 --> 00:10:32,131 Madonna was the ultimate in girl power. 199 00:10:32,214 --> 00:10:34,383 ♪ So come on, Vogue ♪ 200 00:10:36,052 --> 00:10:39,722 ♪ Let your body move to the music ♪ 201 00:10:39,805 --> 00:10:41,015 ♪ Hey, hey, hey ♪ 202 00:10:41,098 --> 00:10:43,184 ♪ Come on, Vogue ♪ 203 00:10:43,267 --> 00:10:44,352 ♪ Vogue ♪ 204 00:10:44,435 --> 00:10:47,313 ♪ Let your body go with the flow ♪ 205 00:10:47,396 --> 00:10:50,149 -[chorus] ♪ Go with the flow ♪ -♪ You know you can do it... ♪ 206 00:10:50,232 --> 00:10:52,026 I was the biggest Madonna fan. 207 00:10:52,109 --> 00:10:54,904 I was her dog walker back in the day. 208 00:10:54,987 --> 00:10:57,907 She was my neighbour and so I was, like, eight years old. 209 00:10:57,990 --> 00:10:59,659 ♪ Don't just stand there Let's get to it ♪ 210 00:10:59,742 --> 00:11:02,995 ♪ Strike a pose There's nothing to it, Vogue ♪ 211 00:11:03,079 --> 00:11:06,374 I remember waiting for every Madonna video to come out. 212 00:11:06,457 --> 00:11:09,043 You would just wait for it to see what her look was gonna be, 213 00:11:09,126 --> 00:11:10,127 what she was wearing. 214 00:11:10,211 --> 00:11:12,380 It's like where you get all your inspiration from. 215 00:11:12,463 --> 00:11:14,423 ♪ Ooh, you've got to ♪ 216 00:11:16,425 --> 00:11:18,135 ♪ Vogue ♪ 217 00:11:19,428 --> 00:11:24,392 If you stay with the tried and true, you're gonna get left behind, 218 00:11:24,475 --> 00:11:27,311 so I didn't think about the risk. 219 00:11:27,395 --> 00:11:28,771 You do what you think is right. 220 00:11:30,314 --> 00:11:34,318 I landed, called everyone, the shoot happened. 221 00:11:35,236 --> 00:11:36,487 [beeps] 222 00:11:39,990 --> 00:11:42,326 [Wintour] Okay, good. And the colour print of Madonna. 223 00:11:44,370 --> 00:11:45,621 It made perfect sense to me 224 00:11:45,705 --> 00:11:49,208 because she had become so associated, Madonna, with fashion. 225 00:11:50,251 --> 00:11:51,627 She wore clothes, 226 00:11:51,711 --> 00:11:55,840 took clothes, made them her own, redefined them. 227 00:11:55,923 --> 00:11:57,633 The idea of putting her on the cover, 228 00:11:57,717 --> 00:12:01,637 it seemed rather clever... [laughing] to me. 229 00:12:03,139 --> 00:12:05,933 [Wintour] I remember looking at the images, 230 00:12:06,016 --> 00:12:08,602 choosing the one of her coming out of the pool. 231 00:12:09,687 --> 00:12:11,856 I loved the informality of it. 232 00:12:13,149 --> 00:12:15,234 [man] I just think she looks so great here. 233 00:12:15,317 --> 00:12:18,529 [Wintour] The printers did call us to say, "Have you made a mistake?" 234 00:12:18,612 --> 00:12:20,322 "And who's that pretty girl?" 235 00:12:20,406 --> 00:12:23,701 They didn't even know that it was Madonna because at the time, 236 00:12:23,784 --> 00:12:29,123 there was such a defined image of her being a lot more made up. 237 00:12:30,166 --> 00:12:31,542 This is a great picture. 238 00:12:31,625 --> 00:12:34,462 A T-shirt and jeans and a sailor cap. You know, why not? 239 00:12:34,545 --> 00:12:36,922 But this is what she really loves to look like. 240 00:12:37,006 --> 00:12:40,176 I think Anna has a definite mission. 241 00:12:40,968 --> 00:12:42,720 We tried to approach Madonna in a different way. 242 00:12:44,638 --> 00:12:48,517 [Bowles] She was wearing all the magnificent clothes, 243 00:12:48,601 --> 00:12:52,563 but she was just wearing them at home and devouring popcorn, 244 00:12:52,646 --> 00:12:58,235 and there was something real about it which was very new for Vogue. 245 00:12:59,403 --> 00:13:02,698 [Parker] I think it was probably around that time 246 00:13:02,782 --> 00:13:05,659 that I started saving my March issues, you know, I did that, 247 00:13:05,743 --> 00:13:09,580 was it the March and September issues, the big fat gorgeous ones, yeah. 248 00:13:11,165 --> 00:13:16,587 One day I went over to walk Madonna's dog and she brought down a shoebox 249 00:13:16,670 --> 00:13:18,714 and gave it to me and Kourtney, and we opened the box, 250 00:13:18,798 --> 00:13:20,925 and it was all neon rubbery bracelets. 251 00:13:22,176 --> 00:13:24,720 And she said, "Here, girls, I'm so over this phase." 252 00:13:24,804 --> 00:13:27,389 We went to school, wearing all this neon stuff. 253 00:13:27,473 --> 00:13:30,142 And everyone was like, "Oh, my God, where did you get that?" 254 00:13:30,226 --> 00:13:33,312 We were like, "Madonna gave it to me." And they were like, "Yeah, right." 255 00:13:33,395 --> 00:13:35,731 I'm like, "No, seriously, Madonna gave it to me." 256 00:13:36,732 --> 00:13:39,235 [Goodman] That cover was a huge success. 257 00:13:40,402 --> 00:13:43,697 Having her plastered all over the newsstands, 258 00:13:43,781 --> 00:13:46,951 every corner you would see this marriage of Vogue 259 00:13:47,034 --> 00:13:52,540 and this pop culture star who was, you know, as daring as Anna. 260 00:13:53,499 --> 00:13:55,543 [Wintour] It felt new, it felt different. 261 00:13:56,585 --> 00:13:59,463 It felt like the statement that we were looking for. 262 00:13:59,547 --> 00:14:04,009 -[man] Five, four, three, two, one! -[crowd cheering] 263 00:14:04,093 --> 00:14:06,303 [man] Happy New Year, everybody! 264 00:14:06,387 --> 00:14:07,847 [fireworks exploding] 265 00:14:09,306 --> 00:14:12,142 [Enninful] Right at the beginning of the decade, I was 18, 266 00:14:12,226 --> 00:14:16,313 I was a model and a stylist just starting out in the fashion industry, 267 00:14:16,397 --> 00:14:20,359 and I remember going to WHSmith, January 1990, 268 00:14:20,442 --> 00:14:23,946 and I saw five supermodels on the cover of British Vogue. 269 00:14:24,029 --> 00:14:25,030 I just loved it. 270 00:14:26,490 --> 00:14:30,536 It was a black-and-white picture, the girls looked like themselves. 271 00:14:30,619 --> 00:14:34,290 It was like a direct sort of break from the '80s. 272 00:14:35,541 --> 00:14:36,834 Let's not forget those girls, 273 00:14:36,917 --> 00:14:39,962 they hadn't become the phenomena that they would become yet. 274 00:14:41,005 --> 00:14:43,048 George Michael looked at these girls and thought... 275 00:14:43,591 --> 00:14:44,592 [snaps finger] 276 00:14:44,675 --> 00:14:48,095 "That's a moment, I'm going to put them in, all in my video, Freedom! '90." 277 00:14:56,020 --> 00:14:57,396 [♪ contemporary music playing] 278 00:14:57,479 --> 00:14:59,607 [Enninful] A popstar not appearing in their own music video 279 00:14:59,690 --> 00:15:00,983 happens all the time now. 280 00:15:01,066 --> 00:15:03,611 But back then, we'd never heard of it. 281 00:15:04,737 --> 00:15:06,447 [Campbell] I had been listening to the album, 282 00:15:06,530 --> 00:15:08,198 I was listening to it anyway. 283 00:15:09,366 --> 00:15:12,119 I just thought, "Well, if anything, it's gonna be a great memory 284 00:15:12,202 --> 00:15:14,246 "for us to have this video." 285 00:15:14,330 --> 00:15:16,498 I didn't know it would create such an impact. 286 00:15:16,582 --> 00:15:17,958 ♪ Oh, yeah... ♪ 287 00:15:20,836 --> 00:15:23,505 [Enninful] I was a stylist at the time with an agency 288 00:15:24,089 --> 00:15:27,468 and I knew all our books went out, every stylist in London wanted that job. 289 00:15:27,551 --> 00:15:29,553 [Camilla Nickerson] I was just a young sprite, 290 00:15:29,637 --> 00:15:30,888 didn't know how to do much. 291 00:15:30,971 --> 00:15:35,559 I was asked to go and have an interview with this film director, David Fincher. 292 00:15:35,643 --> 00:15:37,853 I had to go and meet him out at a film studio 293 00:15:37,937 --> 00:15:40,522 where he was storyboarding the set for Alien. 294 00:15:41,398 --> 00:15:44,902 I went on not to get the job and she got the job, 295 00:15:44,985 --> 00:15:47,237 and I was devastated. 296 00:15:47,321 --> 00:15:48,614 [laughs] 297 00:15:49,448 --> 00:15:53,285 I was just happy for Camilla because Camilla and I go back a long way. 298 00:15:53,369 --> 00:15:55,663 A lot of people say, "I met you when you were younger, 299 00:15:55,746 --> 00:15:58,248 "I met you..." I said, "No, there's a few people that met me 300 00:15:58,332 --> 00:16:00,417 "when I was 14 and Camilla was one of them." 301 00:16:00,501 --> 00:16:02,127 She was a real talent. 302 00:16:02,211 --> 00:16:04,380 ♪ And I guess it was enough for me... ♪ 303 00:16:04,463 --> 00:16:07,424 I was really nervous because then you've gotta do it. 304 00:16:07,508 --> 00:16:09,385 ♪ ...the game is not the same No way ♪ 305 00:16:10,177 --> 00:16:11,762 ♪ Think I'm gonna get me some happy... ♪ 306 00:16:11,845 --> 00:16:16,058 David had a very clear idea to see the women being themselves. 307 00:16:16,141 --> 00:16:18,936 ♪ I think there's something you should know... ♪ 308 00:16:19,019 --> 00:16:21,146 [Nickerson] One thing that he wanted was an enormous, 309 00:16:21,230 --> 00:16:23,357 long white sheet for Christy 310 00:16:23,440 --> 00:16:26,110 made out of a very particular Irish linen. 311 00:16:26,193 --> 00:16:30,364 And so all of my budget... [laughing] just went on the sheet. 312 00:16:31,657 --> 00:16:33,701 ♪ I just hope you understand ♪ 313 00:16:33,784 --> 00:16:36,662 ♪ Sometimes the clothes do not make the man... ♪ 314 00:16:36,745 --> 00:16:39,790 I still had to find the clothes for the rest of the cast 315 00:16:39,873 --> 00:16:42,376 and then that pretty much came from my wardrobe. 316 00:16:43,085 --> 00:16:45,838 My boyfriend's boots ended up on Naomi's feet. 317 00:16:45,921 --> 00:16:48,882 Nev's boots? They were Nev's? That doesn't surprise me. 318 00:16:48,966 --> 00:16:53,178 And this lovely mohair sweater was the one that Linda pulled over her head. 319 00:16:53,262 --> 00:16:55,848 ♪ All we have to see... ♪ 320 00:16:55,931 --> 00:16:59,643 My God, it must've been all smelly when she got that sweater back. 321 00:16:59,727 --> 00:17:03,147 That was a lot of hours in that sweater. 322 00:17:03,230 --> 00:17:05,190 ♪ Freedom! ♪ 323 00:17:05,274 --> 00:17:07,401 It was in a huge hangar. 324 00:17:07,484 --> 00:17:10,571 The girls were super nervous and practising their lines. 325 00:17:10,654 --> 00:17:13,073 Naomi and Linda were like trying to get it just right. 326 00:17:13,157 --> 00:17:16,076 This video was absolutely incredible. 327 00:17:16,160 --> 00:17:18,912 You look at it and you have the goose bumps. 328 00:17:18,996 --> 00:17:21,915 I must've watched it thousands and thousands of times 329 00:17:21,999 --> 00:17:25,252 because the girls looked gorgeous, he was incredible, 330 00:17:25,335 --> 00:17:29,423 obviously, Linda in that video was just like heaven. 331 00:17:30,007 --> 00:17:31,258 ♪ Freedom! ♪ 332 00:17:31,341 --> 00:17:35,137 At the time, I was the face of Chanel and the advice was 333 00:17:35,220 --> 00:17:37,556 I could be jeopardising my high-fashion position 334 00:17:37,639 --> 00:17:38,807 by doing a pop video. 335 00:17:38,891 --> 00:17:41,185 Then when I saw it I thought, 336 00:17:41,268 --> 00:17:43,187 "Hmmm. I should've done this." [chuckles] 337 00:17:45,355 --> 00:17:48,984 [Nickerson] Later I got a phone call, and I was very surprised 338 00:17:49,068 --> 00:17:51,195 because it was Anna Wintour on the phone. 339 00:17:51,278 --> 00:17:55,365 "Would you like a job at American Vogue?" I just thought it was a bit of a joke. 340 00:17:55,449 --> 00:17:58,869 Is somebody pretending to be Anna? You know, I was like, "Sure." 341 00:18:02,081 --> 00:18:05,209 [Enninful] That video was pretty much in every household around the world. 342 00:18:06,168 --> 00:18:08,087 All of a sudden you knew who they were. 343 00:18:08,170 --> 00:18:11,131 Naomi, Linda, Christy, Cindy, they didn't need second names. 344 00:18:15,094 --> 00:18:16,720 [reporter] Supermodels, who are they? 345 00:18:16,804 --> 00:18:19,640 Ask anybody in any shopping mall. 346 00:18:19,723 --> 00:18:21,767 -[reporter] This woman? -That's Christy Turlington. 347 00:18:21,850 --> 00:18:23,811 Do you all know who this is? 348 00:18:23,894 --> 00:18:24,978 Linda Evangelista. 349 00:18:25,062 --> 00:18:26,605 Suddenly I felt famous. 350 00:18:27,689 --> 00:18:29,817 Something I had never felt before. 351 00:18:29,900 --> 00:18:33,195 I remember, in Milan, 352 00:18:33,278 --> 00:18:35,197 when we woke up to read 353 00:18:35,280 --> 00:18:38,617 what I had eaten for breakfast the previous morning, 354 00:18:38,700 --> 00:18:42,454 I was like, "No, why would they care? This is a joke." [laughs] 355 00:18:42,996 --> 00:18:46,625 And it just put us on another level, that's for sure. 356 00:18:46,708 --> 00:18:48,502 For me, I loved Linda. 357 00:18:48,585 --> 00:18:52,089 I was completely Linda obsessed. 358 00:18:56,718 --> 00:18:58,846 [reporter] Are there any drawbacks to being so beautiful? 359 00:18:59,972 --> 00:19:00,973 No. 360 00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:02,641 No. 361 00:19:03,433 --> 00:19:04,434 No. 362 00:19:04,518 --> 00:19:06,228 She was the reason why I cut my hair, 363 00:19:06,311 --> 00:19:09,940 she was the reason why I dyed my hair lots of different colours. 364 00:19:14,319 --> 00:19:18,157 I remember I was in New York and I went to Garren 365 00:19:18,240 --> 00:19:21,869 who was Linda's hairdresser, so I was like, 366 00:19:21,952 --> 00:19:24,997 "Oh, my God! This is Linda's hairdresser touching my hair." 367 00:19:25,080 --> 00:19:26,373 And he cut all my hair off. 368 00:19:27,666 --> 00:19:30,335 I was channelling my inner Linda. 369 00:19:31,336 --> 00:19:34,131 They attract almost as much media attention as royalty. 370 00:19:34,214 --> 00:19:35,841 Naomi Campbell. 371 00:19:35,924 --> 00:19:37,509 They were giving interviews 372 00:19:37,593 --> 00:19:40,137 and they were becoming personalities in their own right. 373 00:19:40,220 --> 00:19:42,723 It's nice to meet you. I see you in all these magazines. 374 00:19:42,806 --> 00:19:47,186 So they weren't these silent, removed people that you couldn't touch. 375 00:19:47,269 --> 00:19:50,189 They were the equivalent of the biggest movie stars we have today. 376 00:19:50,272 --> 00:19:54,151 They had the licence to do almost anything. 377 00:19:54,234 --> 00:19:57,070 The public became fascinated by the supermodels. 378 00:20:01,867 --> 00:20:04,328 [Van Meter] It was in the summer of 1990, 379 00:20:04,411 --> 00:20:07,748 Anna sent me to write about Linda and Christy. 380 00:20:09,166 --> 00:20:12,502 And at the time, I had written, like, one other piece for Vogue. 381 00:20:15,130 --> 00:20:17,257 Linda was an hour late. 382 00:20:17,341 --> 00:20:23,805 And she was wearing, like... kind of like a pale green miniskirt 383 00:20:23,889 --> 00:20:26,350 that was just as short as it could possibly be. 384 00:20:26,433 --> 00:20:30,729 We drank vodka, she smoked Marlboro Reds the whole time. 385 00:20:30,812 --> 00:20:33,941 She ordered two pieces of chocolate cake, didn't eat any dinner. 386 00:20:34,024 --> 00:20:35,567 [laughs] 387 00:20:35,651 --> 00:20:38,070 I remember thinking, "Of course, like, this is perfect. 388 00:20:38,153 --> 00:20:40,280 "You're a supermodel. This is how they are, right?" 389 00:20:41,573 --> 00:20:43,867 I think I basically said, "How much money do you make?" 390 00:20:43,951 --> 00:20:48,330 And she said, "We won't get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day." 391 00:20:49,706 --> 00:20:51,833 One of those moments where you slowly lean in 392 00:20:51,917 --> 00:20:53,835 to make sure the tape recorder's running. 393 00:20:55,337 --> 00:20:57,714 I knew right away that's, like, the last line. 394 00:20:59,216 --> 00:21:04,221 I remember getting a call saying, "Anna doesn't like the ending. 395 00:21:04,304 --> 00:21:06,515 "She thinks it makes them sound mean." 396 00:21:06,598 --> 00:21:09,101 I was embarrassed for her, 397 00:21:09,184 --> 00:21:11,728 that it would not reflect well on Linda 398 00:21:11,812 --> 00:21:14,606 who was so much a part of, you know, our being, 399 00:21:14,690 --> 00:21:17,067 our world, our family. 400 00:21:17,150 --> 00:21:20,195 And I just put up a fight, I was like, "You cannot cut this line." 401 00:21:22,698 --> 00:21:26,159 I just knew instinctively that it would be the quote heard round the world. 402 00:21:28,328 --> 00:21:30,163 I had no idea that... 403 00:21:32,124 --> 00:21:34,001 so much attention would've been brought to it. 404 00:21:38,422 --> 00:21:41,174 [Enninful] The world thought, "My God. We were in a recession." 405 00:21:41,258 --> 00:21:42,801 I remember every day leaving the house 406 00:21:42,884 --> 00:21:47,014 and being so thankful that I could at least earn £9,000 a year. 407 00:21:47,097 --> 00:21:51,018 Fellow models, such as Linda Evangelista made some pretty shocking comments, 408 00:21:51,101 --> 00:21:54,396 "I won't get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day." 409 00:21:54,479 --> 00:21:58,859 I think she said it to be funny, but in print, it didn't read as funny. 410 00:21:58,942 --> 00:22:03,071 I think poor Linda has regretted ever saying that. 411 00:22:03,155 --> 00:22:05,866 I don't wanna be known for that. 412 00:22:05,949 --> 00:22:08,660 I've done so much more than just that quote, 413 00:22:08,744 --> 00:22:11,580 you know, and it's really sticking. 414 00:22:11,663 --> 00:22:14,958 She certainly got out of bed for less than $10,000 for Vogue. 415 00:22:17,919 --> 00:22:22,257 [people chattering indistinctly] 416 00:22:22,341 --> 00:22:25,135 I think that the stories that fashion had been telling 417 00:22:25,218 --> 00:22:28,138 had lost touch with what people were feeling 418 00:22:28,221 --> 00:22:30,015 and that they were seeing, that they were living. 419 00:22:30,974 --> 00:22:32,142 [Enninful] We weren't rich. 420 00:22:32,225 --> 00:22:35,562 We weren't going into Sloane Street buying outfits, 421 00:22:35,645 --> 00:22:37,272 we were just trawling the markets. 422 00:22:38,273 --> 00:22:42,110 We really wanted magazines to reflect the world we lived in. 423 00:22:43,487 --> 00:22:47,324 [Moss] I remember the photographer Corinne Day kind of saying, 424 00:22:47,407 --> 00:22:50,660 "We're gonna change the world." And I was just like, 425 00:22:50,744 --> 00:22:54,581 "With a fashion picture?" But they kind of did. 426 00:22:59,586 --> 00:23:01,421 [Enninful] Corinne Day's Third Summer of Love shoot 427 00:23:01,505 --> 00:23:03,590 with Kate Moss on the cover of The Face, 428 00:23:03,673 --> 00:23:06,051 with that huge smile, the wrinkled nose, 429 00:23:06,134 --> 00:23:09,054 that felt real to us. 430 00:23:09,137 --> 00:23:12,182 I remember seeing Kate in that picture and I was just like... 431 00:23:13,600 --> 00:23:14,726 blown away. 432 00:23:15,727 --> 00:23:19,481 [Goodman] The Face magazine was this small British magazine, 433 00:23:19,564 --> 00:23:23,026 but everybody noticed that cover within the fashion industry. 434 00:23:23,110 --> 00:23:26,780 There was such authenticity in Corinne's pictures that you felt 435 00:23:26,863 --> 00:23:28,824 these have to be the real deal. 436 00:23:28,907 --> 00:23:31,618 With the clothes that we knew from the markets, 437 00:23:31,701 --> 00:23:35,622 with the fashion that we understood, the little daisies in the hair, 438 00:23:35,705 --> 00:23:36,832 little leather strings, 439 00:23:38,166 --> 00:23:41,503 that headdress, I mean, you wouldn't get away with it now. 440 00:23:41,586 --> 00:23:45,424 The reason I think that story is such a strong, pivotal story 441 00:23:45,507 --> 00:23:46,967 is because it's not about fashion. 442 00:23:48,927 --> 00:23:51,513 You're watching a girl, you're not looking at the clothes 443 00:23:51,596 --> 00:23:53,432 and that's a real change of direction. 444 00:23:54,808 --> 00:23:56,435 [Enninful] It was a rejection of fashion. 445 00:23:57,269 --> 00:23:58,979 Anti-fashion became fashion. 446 00:23:59,896 --> 00:24:01,857 [Moss] I didn't like some of the pictures 447 00:24:01,940 --> 00:24:03,525 because that's not how I wanted to... 448 00:24:03,608 --> 00:24:06,361 like at, you know, 15, I wanted to be glamorous 449 00:24:06,445 --> 00:24:09,489 and what they were showing in the magazines at the time. 450 00:24:10,365 --> 00:24:14,494 The first Face shoot, horrible, really awful. 451 00:24:14,578 --> 00:24:19,624 To me, fashion magazines are all about unattainable flavour. 452 00:24:20,834 --> 00:24:22,002 It wasn't fashion. 453 00:24:22,085 --> 00:24:25,964 I mean, I think this was very difficult for a lot of women. 454 00:24:26,047 --> 00:24:30,093 There was this kind of woman with a certain shape, 455 00:24:30,177 --> 00:24:31,303 whose hair was done, 456 00:24:31,386 --> 00:24:33,388 whose makeup was done, whose nails were done. 457 00:24:33,472 --> 00:24:37,058 And then all of a sudden comes Kate saying, like, "You know what? 458 00:24:37,142 --> 00:24:41,688 "It's, like, a slip and no makeup," and it's, like, people were lost. 459 00:24:41,771 --> 00:24:44,524 Not young people, but certainly those women 460 00:24:44,608 --> 00:24:46,485 who were used to going to the beauty parlour 461 00:24:46,568 --> 00:24:48,945 and opening Vogue, they were lost. 462 00:24:49,029 --> 00:24:52,866 You know... [scoffs] as a New York girl, that grew up on the Upper East Side 463 00:24:52,949 --> 00:24:55,660 and, you know, for me, it was very shocking. 464 00:24:55,744 --> 00:25:00,665 When I saw Kate in those photographs, I had no idea what she would become. 465 00:25:00,957 --> 00:25:03,502 [♪ pleasant music playing] 466 00:25:09,049 --> 00:25:13,386 The first time I met Kate, I walked into The Face magazine 467 00:25:14,221 --> 00:25:19,935 and Kate was sort of walking towards me and it was really... 468 00:25:20,018 --> 00:25:21,478 I'm saying this without exaggeration, 469 00:25:21,561 --> 00:25:23,897 it was really like one of those cheesy scenes in a film 470 00:25:23,980 --> 00:25:25,690 where everything just went into slow motion 471 00:25:25,774 --> 00:25:27,734 and angels came out and spoke to me. 472 00:25:27,817 --> 00:25:31,780 I'd never seen anyone so staggeringly beautiful before. 473 00:25:31,863 --> 00:25:33,823 It literally, like, silenced me. 474 00:25:33,907 --> 00:25:35,325 It's the only time I've ever had that, 475 00:25:35,408 --> 00:25:38,787 which is surprising considering the amount of actors and actresses 476 00:25:38,870 --> 00:25:41,665 and celebrities that I've photographed over the years. 477 00:25:45,835 --> 00:25:49,422 It's interesting because Kate Moss on the cover of The Face magazine 478 00:25:49,506 --> 00:25:52,968 did not turn her into a supermodel right away. 479 00:25:53,051 --> 00:25:55,470 The fashion industry actually wasn't ready for her. 480 00:25:57,514 --> 00:25:59,391 [Luchford] I took some Polaroids of her 481 00:25:59,474 --> 00:26:02,269 and I started taking them to show designers in London 482 00:26:02,352 --> 00:26:04,729 and I couldn't get anyone interested. 483 00:26:04,813 --> 00:26:08,567 They still wanted to work with people that had more of a sort of '80s aesthetic. 484 00:26:09,442 --> 00:26:11,778 At that point, I'd become friends with her 485 00:26:11,861 --> 00:26:15,365 and she was still travelling back and forth from Croydon 486 00:26:15,448 --> 00:26:18,285 and she would borrow money to get the train home, completely broke, 487 00:26:18,368 --> 00:26:21,288 picking up the odd editorial here which you never got paid for 488 00:26:21,371 --> 00:26:23,415 or little advertising job there. 489 00:26:24,165 --> 00:26:28,253 And I remember her saying, "I'm going to New York this weekend." 490 00:26:30,255 --> 00:26:32,215 -[engine whirring] -[car horn beeping] 491 00:26:35,760 --> 00:26:38,930 Calvin Klein called me up, he said like, 492 00:26:39,014 --> 00:26:40,098 "Can we meet?" 493 00:26:40,181 --> 00:26:44,936 At the time, Calvin Klein had struggled during the recession 494 00:26:45,020 --> 00:26:47,022 and it needed a rebrand. 495 00:26:47,105 --> 00:26:50,900 He said like, "I have like these jeans that I've been doing for years. 496 00:26:52,777 --> 00:26:57,949 "Now I really want to change and I need a logo. 497 00:26:58,033 --> 00:26:59,826 "Can you come up with something?" 498 00:26:59,909 --> 00:27:02,746 And then I went on to do the CK logo, as you know. 499 00:27:05,206 --> 00:27:08,335 And then Calvin asked me to do the jeans campaign, 500 00:27:08,418 --> 00:27:11,838 the Calvin Klein Jeans and he put a picture on the table, 501 00:27:13,131 --> 00:27:15,550 he said like, "I want pictures like that." 502 00:27:16,259 --> 00:27:20,138 The girl was sitting down and she was wearing a pair of jeans. 503 00:27:21,014 --> 00:27:22,223 It was Vanessa Paradis 504 00:27:22,307 --> 00:27:26,186 and he said, "I wanna do a campaign with Vanessa Paradis, but topless." 505 00:27:29,898 --> 00:27:33,276 I mean, there's something in me that I don't mind provoking a little bit. 506 00:27:33,360 --> 00:27:37,155 Right, I mean, I'm French, so provocation is part of the game. 507 00:27:37,238 --> 00:27:38,323 [chuckles] Uh... 508 00:27:38,406 --> 00:27:43,328 So anything a little bit controversial, I was like, "Yeah, let's do it." 509 00:27:43,411 --> 00:27:47,540 So we start, contact Vanessa Paradis. Blah, blah, blah. 510 00:27:47,624 --> 00:27:50,543 "No, don't want to do it." She didn't wanna do it. 511 00:27:50,627 --> 00:27:51,961 She just didn't want to do it. 512 00:27:52,045 --> 00:27:55,256 She didn't want to do Calvin Klein because she was Chanel. 513 00:27:55,340 --> 00:27:59,302 Nevertheless, we need to find someone that is like that and like... 514 00:28:01,054 --> 00:28:03,473 there I said like, "Well, Kate Moss. 515 00:28:04,724 --> 00:28:07,268 "You should meet that girl Kate Moss, it'd be perfect." 516 00:28:09,062 --> 00:28:13,566 And Kate Moss, she looked very cute, but she didn't look like a model. 517 00:28:13,650 --> 00:28:16,903 She was a bit short, a little bit crooked legs, 518 00:28:16,986 --> 00:28:20,073 teeth were like a little bit eh, like, not perfect. 519 00:28:22,158 --> 00:28:24,619 But you put her in front of a camera and... 520 00:28:24,703 --> 00:28:26,871 [mimicking explosion] it explodes. 521 00:28:33,878 --> 00:28:38,425 So we organise a meeting with Kate and Calvin. 522 00:28:39,801 --> 00:28:41,428 We're sitting in his office. 523 00:28:42,429 --> 00:28:45,473 And Kate Moss comes in, and she starts talking 524 00:28:45,557 --> 00:28:47,308 with her English like, "Oh, no." 525 00:28:47,392 --> 00:28:50,937 Like lowering her face, like super cute, like adorable. 526 00:28:51,020 --> 00:28:54,023 We sat her on the carpet, just like the picture 527 00:28:54,107 --> 00:28:55,859 and Calvin was like, "Oh, my God! 528 00:28:56,860 --> 00:28:59,988 "It's perfect, it's perfect, it's perfect." 529 00:29:00,071 --> 00:29:03,074 That was it. Kate Moss became the new Calvin Klein girl. 530 00:29:07,078 --> 00:29:10,206 [Moss] I remember hearing that Vanessa Paradis didn't wanna do it. 531 00:29:10,290 --> 00:29:13,418 Oh. Okay, well, I'll have it. [chuckles] 532 00:29:13,501 --> 00:29:17,881 Calvin Klein signed her to a contract and she flew home on Concorde 533 00:29:17,964 --> 00:29:22,260 with three million bucks in her pocket and it was like, "Fuck, this is awesome." 534 00:29:22,343 --> 00:29:23,720 [chuckles] 535 00:29:23,803 --> 00:29:27,474 So it was really like a sort of transformation that took place in a week. 536 00:29:28,808 --> 00:29:31,936 Calvin was the one that saw the power of Kate 537 00:29:32,020 --> 00:29:34,606 before anybody else, certainly before any... 538 00:29:34,689 --> 00:29:37,192 Maybe others, people at Vogue, but I certainly didn't see it. 539 00:29:38,485 --> 00:29:40,987 [Moss] The timing was everything. 540 00:29:41,070 --> 00:29:45,784 A year before or a year later, it wouldn't have happened. 541 00:29:45,867 --> 00:29:48,161 The first shoot was a lot of singles 542 00:29:48,244 --> 00:29:50,580 with the photographer, Patrick Demarchelier, 543 00:29:50,663 --> 00:29:53,166 but then I did my first big commercial. 544 00:29:53,249 --> 00:29:55,710 I was really nervous. 545 00:29:55,794 --> 00:30:02,509 It brought together this unknown model with this notoriously famous rap star. 546 00:30:03,802 --> 00:30:05,512 [reporter] Do you know this face? 547 00:30:06,554 --> 00:30:09,933 Okay, forget about the face, do you know the rest of him? 548 00:30:10,016 --> 00:30:11,184 [photographer] This is perfect. 549 00:30:11,267 --> 00:30:12,685 [reporter] It's Marky Mark. 550 00:30:13,478 --> 00:30:15,647 Marky Mark at the time, Mark Wahlberg, 551 00:30:15,730 --> 00:30:19,108 he's an Oscar-nominated actor these days, but back then 552 00:30:19,192 --> 00:30:23,822 was one of the biggest hip-hop stars and he was sort of loved by men, women. 553 00:30:24,906 --> 00:30:27,951 And he was famous for having his pants on show. 554 00:30:28,034 --> 00:30:32,080 Shout goes out to my man Calvin Klein. Good lookin' out for the drawers. 555 00:30:32,163 --> 00:30:37,961 When I saw that advertising, his remarkable body was certainly awesome. 556 00:30:38,545 --> 00:30:40,129 [Enninful] You caught them at a moment. 557 00:30:40,213 --> 00:30:42,382 It was the first time a hip-hop star, 558 00:30:42,465 --> 00:30:45,927 or pretty much any music star had fronted a high-fashion campaign. 559 00:30:46,803 --> 00:30:47,804 Ooh. She got freckles. 560 00:30:47,887 --> 00:30:49,180 [mimicking motorcycle] 561 00:30:49,264 --> 00:30:50,640 Next question. 562 00:30:51,224 --> 00:30:53,142 [Moss] It was quite overwhelming. 563 00:30:53,226 --> 00:30:56,896 I was 18, you know, he was a big superstar rapper 564 00:30:56,980 --> 00:31:00,525 and I still felt like a, you know, just a girl from Croydon. 565 00:31:00,608 --> 00:31:01,901 They asked me to be topless, 566 00:31:01,985 --> 00:31:05,572 it was just a lot of people on set, a lot of men. 567 00:31:06,155 --> 00:31:07,490 I did feel vulnerable. 568 00:31:08,491 --> 00:31:11,744 Now that could definitely come between me and my Calvins. 569 00:31:11,828 --> 00:31:13,621 Do you have Calvin Klein underwear on? 570 00:31:14,664 --> 00:31:17,292 That advert premiered on the music channel MTV 571 00:31:17,375 --> 00:31:20,712 in every household, pretty much all over the world. 572 00:31:20,795 --> 00:31:21,963 Calvin's clever. 573 00:31:22,046 --> 00:31:25,258 He had an instinct about what young people wanted to see. 574 00:31:25,341 --> 00:31:27,427 -[sirens wailing in the distance] -[car horn beeping] 575 00:31:27,510 --> 00:31:31,097 [Parker] I remember Calvin Klein ads all over the buses, 576 00:31:31,681 --> 00:31:33,349 all over Times Square. 577 00:31:33,433 --> 00:31:35,560 You know, I lined up for my Calvin Klein underwear 578 00:31:35,643 --> 00:31:37,896 at Bloomingdales like everybody else. The minute they dropped, 579 00:31:37,979 --> 00:31:41,941 I was there 7:00 in the morning at Bloomingdales on 59th and Lex. 580 00:31:42,025 --> 00:31:44,235 You know, these people were influencing us. 581 00:31:44,319 --> 00:31:48,031 That campaign turned around the fortunes for Calvin Klein. 582 00:31:48,114 --> 00:31:49,490 It went crazy. 583 00:31:49,574 --> 00:31:53,202 People went crazy for Marky Mark and crazy for Kate Moss. 584 00:31:55,705 --> 00:31:58,124 All the photographers wanted Kate, Kate, Kate, Kate, Kate. 585 00:31:59,459 --> 00:32:00,919 They all wanted to work with her. 586 00:32:01,753 --> 00:32:06,174 She was anti-supermodel, anti-fashion 587 00:32:06,257 --> 00:32:11,054 and she was 100% real, and 100% the '90s. 588 00:32:12,972 --> 00:32:15,808 [John Galliano] She was... is gorgeous. 589 00:32:15,892 --> 00:32:19,604 We didn't really worry that she wasn't maybe as tall 590 00:32:19,687 --> 00:32:21,981 as the other girls or maybe not this or that. 591 00:32:22,065 --> 00:32:24,984 Kate was Kate, you booked Kate because it was Kate. 592 00:32:25,068 --> 00:32:27,654 She had a very different kind of beauty 593 00:32:27,737 --> 00:32:32,533 and it altered our perception of what was beautiful. 594 00:32:32,617 --> 00:32:37,121 Models did not look like Kate Moss before Kate Moss. 595 00:32:38,414 --> 00:32:41,668 [Enninful] I remember thinking, "My God, fashion's really changed." 596 00:32:41,751 --> 00:32:45,213 Kate ushered in a whole new body shape and a new kind of beauty. 597 00:32:46,547 --> 00:32:50,635 [reporter] Among the new names is Shalom, Kristen McMenamy 598 00:32:50,718 --> 00:32:53,012 and there's 19-year-old Amber Valletta. 599 00:32:53,096 --> 00:32:57,684 We represented raw beauty, you know, edgy and different. 600 00:32:57,767 --> 00:33:00,561 There was something sort of a little off. 601 00:33:00,645 --> 00:33:01,771 [laughs] 602 00:33:01,854 --> 00:33:03,523 Me, I've got a giant forehead. 603 00:33:04,857 --> 00:33:07,694 Kate's got the wide-set eyes. 604 00:33:07,777 --> 00:33:11,739 She had crooked teeth, quite fangy really. 605 00:33:11,823 --> 00:33:12,865 Sorry, Kate. 606 00:33:13,950 --> 00:33:19,455 Before Kate, I was sick of trying to be a pretty girl 607 00:33:20,289 --> 00:33:22,250 because I felt almost like a fake. 608 00:33:22,834 --> 00:33:27,005 And then the hair got chopped, I shaved my eyebrows off. 609 00:33:27,088 --> 00:33:31,259 That's when it started to really take off. 610 00:33:33,761 --> 00:33:38,349 The change came like a train coming out of nowhere in the dark. 611 00:33:41,102 --> 00:33:44,313 All of the supermodels and all of the supermodels of tomorrow... 612 00:33:44,397 --> 00:33:45,982 I was of tomorrow, 613 00:33:46,065 --> 00:33:47,650 we weren't getting booked any more. 614 00:33:47,734 --> 00:33:49,694 Some blamed Kate, you know, 615 00:33:49,777 --> 00:33:53,781 for sort of changing essentially what modelling was. 616 00:33:55,950 --> 00:34:00,121 The other girls could feel that Kate was the new thing. 617 00:34:00,913 --> 00:34:01,998 Um... 618 00:34:02,999 --> 00:34:04,083 For sure. 619 00:34:04,792 --> 00:34:08,796 Some expressed their feelings too, but I'll let Kate tell you those stories. 620 00:34:08,880 --> 00:34:09,881 [laughs] 621 00:34:09,964 --> 00:34:11,424 Oh, no. 622 00:34:11,507 --> 00:34:13,217 [laughs] 623 00:34:13,301 --> 00:34:15,053 I'm mentioning no names. 624 00:34:15,136 --> 00:34:18,014 Yeah, there was definitely a bit of like, 625 00:34:18,097 --> 00:34:20,349 "She's come along, what's gonna happen to us?" 626 00:34:20,433 --> 00:34:21,893 They knew. 627 00:34:21,976 --> 00:34:24,979 I remember being backstage at a fashion show in New York City 628 00:34:25,063 --> 00:34:26,689 and all the supers were like, 629 00:34:26,773 --> 00:34:30,068 "Oh, my God, Calvin didn't book any of us. Calvin didn't book any of us." 630 00:34:30,151 --> 00:34:33,279 I remember the panic on all of those supermodels' faces. 631 00:34:33,362 --> 00:34:34,947 If you have a hockey team, 632 00:34:35,948 --> 00:34:39,744 you don't retire the whole team all at once. 633 00:34:39,827 --> 00:34:41,829 You bring in rookies one at a time. 634 00:34:41,913 --> 00:34:44,457 I mean, I'm... 635 00:34:44,540 --> 00:34:48,044 It's really nice to see these new girls. 636 00:34:48,628 --> 00:34:53,633 My first season at the shows, I was intimidated. 637 00:34:53,716 --> 00:34:54,884 Not now, please. 638 00:34:56,052 --> 00:34:58,012 They just seemed giants to me 639 00:34:58,096 --> 00:35:02,016 and I was like scrawny and, you know, quite shy. 640 00:35:02,100 --> 00:35:03,851 They're just more sophisticated. 641 00:35:03,935 --> 00:35:07,188 They're women and I'm not really a woman yet, I don't think. 642 00:35:08,022 --> 00:35:10,441 But then Christy and Naomi took me under their wing, 643 00:35:10,525 --> 00:35:13,486 so from that moment on, I was fine. 644 00:35:13,569 --> 00:35:14,821 [people chattering indistinctly] 645 00:35:16,489 --> 00:35:20,493 What was kind of clever actually was how Christy Turlington 646 00:35:20,576 --> 00:35:23,579 and Linda Evangelista decided they didn't wanna be left out of it, 647 00:35:23,663 --> 00:35:25,123 and changed their haircut, 648 00:35:25,206 --> 00:35:27,041 and changed their look, 649 00:35:27,125 --> 00:35:30,378 and suddenly boom, they were being photographed by Dave Sims 650 00:35:30,461 --> 00:35:31,754 and Corinne Day, and they were in it. 651 00:35:34,173 --> 00:35:36,676 [people chattering indistinctly] 652 00:35:38,970 --> 00:35:42,223 I remember thinking it was a very kind of exciting time, 653 00:35:42,306 --> 00:35:45,393 seeing those new faces coming into the scene, 654 00:35:45,476 --> 00:35:49,522 but in those very early '90s, we were losing a lot of people too. 655 00:35:49,605 --> 00:35:51,941 [♪ melancholy music playing] 656 00:35:56,279 --> 00:35:58,781 [Wintour] The fashion community was one of the hardest hit, 657 00:35:58,865 --> 00:36:02,326 so many people that we cared deeply about were being affected. 658 00:36:02,410 --> 00:36:04,662 You'd be at a dinner party, 659 00:36:04,745 --> 00:36:08,833 the light would catch a friend's face just a certain way. 660 00:36:08,916 --> 00:36:10,251 [gasps] 661 00:36:11,252 --> 00:36:12,378 And you knew. 662 00:36:12,962 --> 00:36:17,842 It's hard to think about this now, but there really was trepidation 663 00:36:17,925 --> 00:36:21,304 about talking about HIV or the illness itself. 664 00:36:21,387 --> 00:36:23,055 It was just not discussed. 665 00:36:23,139 --> 00:36:27,685 I become very inarticulate when this subject comes up, 666 00:36:27,768 --> 00:36:32,023 but, um, Robert, who was my partner, 667 00:36:32,106 --> 00:36:33,858 we were together for nine and a half years, 668 00:36:33,941 --> 00:36:35,109 he died of AIDS. 669 00:36:35,693 --> 00:36:38,029 My boyfriend died of AIDS. 670 00:36:38,112 --> 00:36:41,407 You know, out of my ten best college friends, 671 00:36:41,490 --> 00:36:44,827 only seven, well, seven died, three are alive. 672 00:36:44,911 --> 00:36:49,999 I had a, you know, a really close friend called Alan Buxbaum whom I... 673 00:36:51,417 --> 00:36:54,212 Was one of the first people I met when I first moved to New York. 674 00:36:54,295 --> 00:36:58,132 We spent a lot of time... with him. 675 00:36:58,216 --> 00:37:01,844 I had just had my first child and he told my husband, 676 00:37:03,179 --> 00:37:05,473 "My biggest regret is I won't see him grow up." 677 00:37:08,392 --> 00:37:10,770 I mean, it's just... 678 00:37:11,979 --> 00:37:17,652 I just don't even have words to describe how horribly sad and terrifying it was. 679 00:37:19,320 --> 00:37:24,408 We'd lost so many friends at that point, and people still weren't talking about it. 680 00:37:24,492 --> 00:37:27,787 I think that Anna felt 681 00:37:27,870 --> 00:37:32,041 the fashion industry hadn't done enough, honestly. 682 00:37:32,124 --> 00:37:36,921 The most urgent need at the time, beyond raising the money, 683 00:37:37,004 --> 00:37:39,590 was to make people aware 684 00:37:39,674 --> 00:37:41,884 that the whole world was being affected by this. 685 00:37:42,802 --> 00:37:47,265 So it was not a question of should we do this, 686 00:37:47,348 --> 00:37:50,768 it's just a question of how should we do it, how quickly, 687 00:37:50,851 --> 00:37:54,939 how can we make a statement that will reach 688 00:37:55,022 --> 00:37:58,276 not only our community but the world? 689 00:37:59,235 --> 00:38:02,071 It may be one of the largest single charity events ever, 690 00:38:02,154 --> 00:38:04,282 Seventh Avenue is going on sale tonight, 691 00:38:04,365 --> 00:38:07,368 selling $20 million worth of retail designer goods 692 00:38:07,451 --> 00:38:09,495 that will go for a fraction of that price, 693 00:38:09,578 --> 00:38:11,539 all the money will go towards the battle to fight AIDS. 694 00:38:11,622 --> 00:38:15,001 Listen, when Anna wants to do something, Anna does it 695 00:38:15,084 --> 00:38:21,299 and Anna does it probably in the biggest, most important, creative way. 696 00:38:21,382 --> 00:38:22,758 And it was amazing. 697 00:38:24,260 --> 00:38:27,555 [reporter] Over 100 designers raided their showrooms, 698 00:38:27,638 --> 00:38:32,727 pouring forth a cornucopia of couture at below wholesale prices. 699 00:38:34,103 --> 00:38:39,358 The idea was to create a street fair where designers all came 700 00:38:39,442 --> 00:38:41,027 and manned their booths. 701 00:38:41,110 --> 00:38:43,154 This looks great, but we don't have more variety. 702 00:38:43,237 --> 00:38:45,031 So if you were at the Calvin Klein booth, 703 00:38:45,114 --> 00:38:48,075 Calvin was there or if you were at the Vogue booth, 704 00:38:48,159 --> 00:38:50,036 I and many other editors were there. 705 00:38:50,119 --> 00:38:53,080 She had this idea to get everybody together. 706 00:38:53,164 --> 00:38:55,374 You don't say no to Anna. 707 00:38:55,458 --> 00:38:57,001 [laughing] 708 00:38:57,084 --> 00:39:00,880 The word "no" does not exist in Anna's vocabulary. 709 00:39:00,963 --> 00:39:03,966 There are 148 American designers here represented. 710 00:39:04,050 --> 00:39:08,512 It's very important to the whole industry and I'm part of it, so I wanna do my part. 711 00:39:08,596 --> 00:39:10,097 This is really exciting 712 00:39:10,181 --> 00:39:13,267 and I just hope everyone's going to shop like crazy. 713 00:39:13,351 --> 00:39:15,061 [Michael Kors] The lines were huge, 714 00:39:15,144 --> 00:39:18,230 clothes were flying everywhere. There was just this buzz. 715 00:39:19,523 --> 00:39:22,568 [Enninful] Seventh on Sale, it was such a statement 716 00:39:22,651 --> 00:39:25,279 and it really started to shine a light on HIV. 717 00:39:25,363 --> 00:39:27,823 And then people thought maybe it's okay to talk about it. 718 00:39:27,907 --> 00:39:32,411 You know, if sometimes in fashion, you feel what you do 719 00:39:32,495 --> 00:39:34,747 can feel light or frothy... 720 00:39:35,289 --> 00:39:38,709 And in this instance, we thought, "Wow." 721 00:39:38,793 --> 00:39:41,504 What we do actually can make a difference. 722 00:39:41,587 --> 00:39:45,549 We've already raised well over $1 million and we haven't sold one frock yet, 723 00:39:45,633 --> 00:39:47,551 so you should ask us again on Monday morning, 724 00:39:47,635 --> 00:39:49,220 but we're hoping for a big figure. 725 00:39:50,721 --> 00:39:54,517 Seventh on Sale, as small as it was, 726 00:39:55,518 --> 00:39:57,478 really changed the conversation. 727 00:39:57,561 --> 00:40:02,024 I think when I look back at my career, honestly, I have to say, it's... 728 00:40:02,942 --> 00:40:05,528 it's the initiative that I am the proudest of. 729 00:40:05,611 --> 00:40:09,407 She had not actually been on the scene that long at Vogue, 730 00:40:09,490 --> 00:40:14,120 but we all realised what a huge force Anna and Vogue could be. 731 00:40:14,912 --> 00:40:18,999 -[sirens wailing in distance] -[car horn beeping] 732 00:40:19,083 --> 00:40:20,709 I tell you what I loved in February was... 733 00:40:20,793 --> 00:40:22,711 I remember sitting in lots of meetings saying, 734 00:40:22,795 --> 00:40:25,756 "Where is the next generation of new designers 735 00:40:25,840 --> 00:40:27,299 "that Vogue should be supporting?" 736 00:40:29,009 --> 00:40:33,764 We need people to inspire us, not just people that are churning it out. 737 00:40:35,307 --> 00:40:38,269 Vogue had this enormous power with the designers 738 00:40:38,352 --> 00:40:42,022 because, essentially, Vogue could make or break them. 739 00:40:42,106 --> 00:40:44,483 I mean, more often than not, they made them. 740 00:40:45,025 --> 00:40:47,778 [machine whirring] 741 00:40:47,862 --> 00:40:49,572 [Ferguson] Before the Internet or social media, 742 00:40:49,655 --> 00:40:51,740 that is where you'd get your information from. 743 00:40:51,824 --> 00:40:54,869 If the leader was telling you that this is good, 744 00:40:54,952 --> 00:40:56,579 it got everybody looking at you. 745 00:40:56,662 --> 00:40:58,372 [machine whirring] 746 00:40:58,456 --> 00:41:01,584 Vogue was very important for the designers, you know, 747 00:41:01,667 --> 00:41:04,378 because Vogue was like a dictator. 748 00:41:04,462 --> 00:41:07,298 If you were not in Vogue, meaning you were like... 749 00:41:07,381 --> 00:41:08,591 [mimicking snarls] 750 00:41:08,674 --> 00:41:11,677 That was the power of Vogue, which of course was Anna Wintour. 751 00:41:14,472 --> 00:41:17,600 We were at a moment where everybody was walking up and down, 752 00:41:17,683 --> 00:41:20,728 very uniform, kind of boring. I mean it was... 753 00:41:20,811 --> 00:41:23,564 Those were the moments that I was happiest to have my dark glasses 754 00:41:23,647 --> 00:41:25,149 because, you know, it was just dull. 755 00:41:29,361 --> 00:41:31,780 [Wintour] I think André, our creative director, 756 00:41:31,864 --> 00:41:35,326 and Hamish kept saying to me, "You really need to get to know 757 00:41:35,409 --> 00:41:38,704 "and watch what John Galliano is doing in Paris." 758 00:41:38,787 --> 00:41:40,664 [people chattering indistinctly] 759 00:41:42,333 --> 00:41:47,671 [Wintour] You could already see that theatricality and that storytelling. 760 00:41:48,756 --> 00:41:51,467 [Galliano] Yes, Kate! Go, go, yes! 761 00:41:51,550 --> 00:41:53,385 Wicked! Wicked! 762 00:41:53,469 --> 00:41:55,304 [Wintour] There was always a story there. 763 00:41:56,180 --> 00:42:00,392 A fleeing heiress running from a vengeful suitor 764 00:42:01,810 --> 00:42:03,854 and you felt that emotion and that magic 765 00:42:03,938 --> 00:42:05,814 on the runway and in the clothes. 766 00:42:06,649 --> 00:42:10,903 I intrinsically understood that John was one of those designers 767 00:42:10,986 --> 00:42:13,280 that was just gonna change everything. 768 00:42:15,282 --> 00:42:17,576 [Bowles] Those dresses were exquisite, 769 00:42:17,660 --> 00:42:21,622 but they weren't wearable and they were so expensive to make, 770 00:42:21,705 --> 00:42:25,000 he didn't have any money left to make another collection. 771 00:42:25,084 --> 00:42:29,630 And I think lots of people felt he wasn't going to survive. 772 00:42:30,589 --> 00:42:33,384 [♪ enthralling music playing] 773 00:42:33,467 --> 00:42:35,469 [car horn beeping] 774 00:42:37,721 --> 00:42:39,848 [Galliano] I was living hand to mouth, 775 00:42:39,932 --> 00:42:42,643 eating baked beans off little Bunsen burners, 776 00:42:43,227 --> 00:42:45,479 living on friends' floors and, you know, 777 00:42:45,563 --> 00:42:47,773 whoever would be kind enough to feed us. 778 00:42:48,274 --> 00:42:51,860 [Wintour] I mean, I was very focused on trying to help him, 779 00:42:51,944 --> 00:42:54,488 lending John or rather giving John money 780 00:42:54,572 --> 00:42:57,866 just so he could eat or have a cab ride home. 781 00:42:57,950 --> 00:43:01,203 Anna had said, "You just can't miss another season, John, 782 00:43:01,287 --> 00:43:04,665 "you've gotta get your act together, you can't, you know, you can't." 783 00:43:04,748 --> 00:43:06,208 And this was like, I don't know, 784 00:43:06,292 --> 00:43:09,253 four or five weeks before Paris Fashion Week, 785 00:43:10,087 --> 00:43:12,840 but I had no money, I had no way of producing stuff. 786 00:43:12,923 --> 00:43:15,342 So then Anna and André kicked in. 787 00:43:16,010 --> 00:43:17,928 It was kind of extraordinary. 788 00:43:21,473 --> 00:43:25,811 Anna published a 12-page spread featuring his last collection 789 00:43:26,604 --> 00:43:30,441 shot by the fabulous Steven Meisel and Ellen von Unwerth. 790 00:43:31,483 --> 00:43:33,819 Even though it wasn't available to buy anywhere. 791 00:43:35,029 --> 00:43:36,405 I mean, I didn't have a business. 792 00:43:36,488 --> 00:43:39,033 I didn't have an atelier, but I had 12 pages in that Vogue. 793 00:43:40,284 --> 00:43:43,037 [Bowles] And that was really a turning point. 794 00:43:43,120 --> 00:43:47,249 From then on, John's future was made in fact. 795 00:43:48,250 --> 00:43:52,588 I just wanted to help the wider world to understand his genius. 796 00:43:53,881 --> 00:43:56,216 [Bowles] And then Anna's creative director, 797 00:43:56,300 --> 00:44:00,929 André Leon Talley, took it out to a meeting with a potential investor. 798 00:44:02,097 --> 00:44:05,851 And then I just remember André pulled out the American Vogue. 799 00:44:05,934 --> 00:44:09,730 "This is what American Vogue thinks of John Galliano. What are you doing?" 800 00:44:10,397 --> 00:44:12,191 [laughs] 801 00:44:14,026 --> 00:44:16,236 I mean, I must say it's rather clever, 802 00:44:16,820 --> 00:44:19,156 with Vogue's seal of approval, 803 00:44:19,823 --> 00:44:22,910 he had just enough money to stage his show. 804 00:44:24,119 --> 00:44:25,579 But I think it was like three weeks 805 00:44:25,663 --> 00:44:28,248 before the Paris Fashion Week deadline. 806 00:44:28,332 --> 00:44:30,042 How am I gonna pull this off? 807 00:44:30,125 --> 00:44:33,671 I threw myself into someone's kitchen and kitchen table 808 00:44:33,754 --> 00:44:36,131 and started, you know, cutting bias things 809 00:44:36,215 --> 00:44:38,926 and the only fabric we could buy had to be off the shelf. 810 00:44:39,009 --> 00:44:41,095 And it was black, satin black crepe. 811 00:44:41,178 --> 00:44:43,097 How do I make that look like more? 812 00:44:43,180 --> 00:44:45,557 So I started using the wrong side and the right side, 813 00:44:45,641 --> 00:44:47,935 and putting the bias together like a jigsaw, 814 00:44:48,018 --> 00:44:50,729 calling in the favours of the girls. 815 00:44:50,813 --> 00:44:53,273 I wanted to be part of that show. 816 00:44:53,357 --> 00:44:57,361 I knew this man one day, when he could afford to pay us, he would. 817 00:44:57,444 --> 00:44:58,987 -Hey. -Hello. 818 00:44:59,697 --> 00:45:02,908 [Moss] I wanted to do it, it was the make-or-break show. 819 00:45:05,202 --> 00:45:07,454 We all had just one outfit. 820 00:45:07,538 --> 00:45:09,998 Before you went on, he would give you your character. 821 00:45:10,082 --> 00:45:13,794 You would arrive and you'd be like, "Okay, let's hear it." Right? 822 00:45:15,129 --> 00:45:17,506 [Moss] It really revs up everything. 823 00:45:18,298 --> 00:45:22,010 Many directions were given to Kate. 824 00:45:22,094 --> 00:45:25,931 "I dunno that I can say it, but you're a girl from Croydon 825 00:45:26,014 --> 00:45:29,143 "and you haven't had a shag for ages, and you really wanna get fucked." 826 00:45:29,226 --> 00:45:30,227 Boom! 827 00:45:33,981 --> 00:45:35,524 [♪ opera music playing] 828 00:45:35,607 --> 00:45:39,236 I remember being there, and... oh, my God. 829 00:45:40,654 --> 00:45:44,241 It was just such excitement. 830 00:45:45,909 --> 00:45:49,246 [Moss] Each and every girl felt so amazing. 831 00:45:51,123 --> 00:45:53,792 [Campbell] I don't know how to describe this feeling to you, 832 00:45:54,877 --> 00:45:56,879 but the high that I felt. 833 00:45:56,962 --> 00:45:59,798 Like, it was just so beautifully done. 834 00:46:01,550 --> 00:46:04,803 [Galliano] Because you'd seen those girls, Kate, Linda and Naomi, 835 00:46:04,887 --> 00:46:06,930 all of them on print, 836 00:46:07,514 --> 00:46:10,726 but you were able to see them walking past you, 837 00:46:10,809 --> 00:46:13,520 and you could hear the rustle of the silks and the taffetas 838 00:46:13,604 --> 00:46:16,064 and smell the scent of the gin on their breath. 839 00:46:16,648 --> 00:46:18,192 And it was the first time. 840 00:46:21,069 --> 00:46:23,030 [Wintour] I remember sitting there watching, 841 00:46:23,113 --> 00:46:25,407 it was probably 25 looks. 842 00:46:26,408 --> 00:46:29,411 Very few looks, all in black because that's all he could afford. 843 00:46:31,079 --> 00:46:33,290 That is a show I will always remember. 844 00:46:34,708 --> 00:46:39,046 This is a moment that was going to change how we all dressed. 845 00:46:40,172 --> 00:46:44,551 He brought a level of creativity and imagination 846 00:46:45,719 --> 00:46:48,555 and theatricality that we hadn't seen before. 847 00:46:48,639 --> 00:46:50,933 I mean, many people have copied that since, 848 00:46:51,016 --> 00:46:52,309 but he was certainly the first. 849 00:46:52,392 --> 00:46:56,146 [clapping] 850 00:46:58,565 --> 00:47:01,652 [Galliano] I think, on that day, I proved my mettle 851 00:47:01,735 --> 00:47:04,822 and I proved that I could do it and I was a couturier. 852 00:47:04,905 --> 00:47:07,074 [clapping] 853 00:47:07,157 --> 00:47:10,536 And I think the word spread in Paris that, you know, 854 00:47:10,619 --> 00:47:14,373 this punk in the Bastille was, you know, getting a lot of clients. 855 00:47:14,456 --> 00:47:15,499 [laughs] 856 00:47:16,291 --> 00:47:20,462 [Bowles] Within a year, John had become the head at Givenchy, 857 00:47:20,546 --> 00:47:24,341 the first British person to lead a French couture house. 858 00:47:25,175 --> 00:47:30,055 And I think it was a lot to do with Anna's backing of him, I am sure. 859 00:47:32,307 --> 00:47:35,352 Listen, we've placed some bets, they haven't always been right. 860 00:47:35,435 --> 00:47:39,565 But I always think of Vogue as having a deep responsibility 861 00:47:39,648 --> 00:47:44,945 to raise the profile of whatever the talent of a generation may be. 862 00:47:45,529 --> 00:47:49,783 [Enninful] The '90s were underway and Vogue was at the heart of everything. 863 00:47:49,867 --> 00:47:51,451 It was really amazing to watch. 864 00:47:52,286 --> 00:47:55,706 But some of the new generation were about to shock the establishment. 865 00:47:58,750 --> 00:48:03,839 We definitely had like this attitude, messy hair and baggy pants. 866 00:48:04,548 --> 00:48:07,050 Anna was appalled, frankly. 867 00:48:07,593 --> 00:48:09,094 [cheering] 868 00:48:09,177 --> 00:48:12,139 All of our parents were like, "What are you guys doing?" 869 00:48:12,222 --> 00:48:15,100 I remember being completely stunned. 870 00:48:15,183 --> 00:48:16,643 [Goodman] This is gonna become a trend, 871 00:48:16,727 --> 00:48:19,021 this is gonna be something that we're gonna endorse? 872 00:48:19,104 --> 00:48:21,189 It was awful. 873 00:48:21,273 --> 00:48:23,483 It was like, "Jesus, what has happened?" 874 00:48:24,276 --> 00:48:26,320 All of a sudden, we were seen as careless, 875 00:48:26,403 --> 00:48:28,155 we were seen as radical. 876 00:48:28,238 --> 00:48:31,783 "No sex, we are British." It's not the reality, you know. 877 00:48:31,867 --> 00:48:33,410 London was alive. 878 00:48:33,994 --> 00:48:37,331 We were all just in the same room at the same time. 879 00:48:37,414 --> 00:48:39,833 [Enninful] Stella McCartney, Lee McQueen. 880 00:48:39,917 --> 00:48:42,961 I've always been a bit of a rebel with a cause. 881 00:48:43,045 --> 00:48:44,671 [man] We are packed wall to wall! 882 00:48:44,755 --> 00:48:47,674 I say to him, "Lee, Anna Wintour's outside the door 883 00:48:47,758 --> 00:48:51,053 "with André Leon Talley and Grace Coddington and she can't get in." 884 00:48:51,136 --> 00:48:52,429 And he was like, "Oh, fuck 'em." 885 00:48:52,512 --> 00:48:54,348 [♪ theme music playing]